Notice that the title of this post is “a perfect match,” not “the perfect match.” Most foods or dishes benefit from pairing with a variety of wines in a vinous spectrum that might bring out different but completely legitimate nuances in both food and the accompanying wine. It’s annoying when the wine editor of an online or print food publication assigns one exact wine to a recipe, as if that pairing were etched in stone. Better is the approach of Eric Asimov, wine critic for The New York Times. When he is working with a recipe in the newspaper’s Dining section, he offers a range of wines, even sometimes mentioning beer or cider as an alternative. It’s a reminder that we need to be open and eclectic in choosing wines to drink with a dish, that the world of wine is generous and multiform.

That said, we experienced one of those moments of perfection last night with a risotto with Italian sausage, parsley and parmesan — from Sunday’s New York Times Magazine — with which I served the Two Shepherds Mourvèdre 2014, from California’s El Dorado AVA, a region of high-elevation vineyards in the Sierra Nevada foothills three counties to the east of Napa. It was chilly last night in our neck o’ the woods, and this hearty risotto went a far piece toward warming the cockles of our hearts, an expression often used by my late father, though I can’t exactly place the anatomical location of said cockles.

Owner and winemaker William Allen employs native yeasts in the fermentation of these mourvèdre grapes and uses only neutral French oak in aging the wine. Neutral oak — that is, often-used barrels — has the advantage of not imparting to a wine the character of new oak in the form of vanilla and toasted coconut, instead lending a subtle power that gives the wine a sense of shape and purpose without being overbearing.

Now friends, there is no particular virtue in heavily extracted wines, those fermented with the aim of producing deep, dark opaque colors and auras of impenetrable intensity and concentration. The color of the Two Shepherds Mourvèdre 2014 is a ravishing, totally transparent medium ruby that shades to an ethereal magenta rim; wine in heaven must display such a hue. Notes of raspberry and black cherry are permeated by hints of cherry stem and raspberry leaf, with a gradual infusion of something slightly and delicately exotic: rose hip tea, cloves, lilac, orange zest. Lithe, sinewy and supple in texture, this wine’s bright acidity cuts a path on the palate, while a whisper of graphite denotes a thoughtful, gently rigorous mineral element. A few minutes in the glass bring in hints of foresty-woodsy herbs and flowers, contributing to a package that is complex, vibrant and resonant altogether. Notice the alcohol content: a very comfortable and rational 12.7 percent. William Allen produced a whopping 87 cases of this wine, so I suggest a call to the winery or a visit to its website to obtain a bottle or two. Excellent. About $32.

By the way, as I write this entry, I’m feasting on a bowl of the leftover risotto from last night and sipping an inexpensive Spanish garnacha. Guess what? It’s just fine, thank you very much.

A sample for review.