One of the gratifying aspects of writing about wine and receiving samples from wineries, importers and marketing companies is the occasional surprise in the form of a product made from a grape I never encountered in a career that extends now to 33 and a half years. Such a case is the Olho de Mocho Reserva 2014, a white wine fashioned from the antão vaz grape in Portugal’s province of Alentejo, more specifically, the sub-region of Vidigueira. The estate of Herdade do Rocim consists of 70 hectares — 53 to red grapes, 17 to white, a proportion that reflects the area’s general ratio of a production of 20 percent white wines. Olho de Mocho Reserva 2014 aged nine months in French oak barrels. The color is very pale gold, and indeed the wine itself seems glowing and golden; aromas of hawthorn and yellow plums are infused with quince and spiced pear, with lingering whiffs of spare minerals and oceanic elements: flint, sea-salt and marsh grass. A talc-like texture is riven by bright acidity, and the flint-limestone element comes up as a scintillating tide, all at the service of an elegant and subtle array of spiced and macerated flavors: peach, quince and mango. 13.5 percent alcohol. A revelation. A few years should lend this wine even more burnish and character; drink through 2020 or ’21 with a variety of roasted or grilled sea-creatures. Excellent. About $30, and Worth a Search.

Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles. A sample for review.