For the first Wine of the Day of 2018, let’s look at the Morgan Winery Metallico Unoaked Chardonnay 2015, from Monterey County. Don’t let anyone tell you that a wine must go through a stint in oak barrels to achieve complexity and a layered quality. The Morgan Metallico ’15 spent five months in stainless steel tanks and did not go through malolactic fermentation, yet it delivers a piece of detail and dimension that wines aged in oak might envy. The color is bright medium straw-gold; heady aromas of spiced pears and roasted lemons unfurl notes of mango and lime peel, quince and candied ginger, while a few minutes in the glass bring in hints of lemon balm and heather. Sprightly acidity keeps this wine lively and engaging, and its lithe and supple texture cuts a swath on the palate; citrus and yellow stone-fruit flavors are smoky, ripe and slightly feral, and the finish is a suave emanation of glittering limestone minerality. Yep, it’s delicious. 13.5 percent alcohol. Winemaker was Sam Smith. No, not that Sam Smith, the other one. Excellent. About $22.

A sample for review.