Two renditions of brut rosé, one a Champagne that displays lovely style, tone and elegance, the other a well-crafted and delicious Cava from Spain. You pays yer money and you takes yer choice.

These wines were samples for review.
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For four generations, the parents and grandparents of André Jacquart only produced Champagne grapes. In 1958 André introduced a new spirit in the family, producing his own estate-bottled Champagne in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Since 2004, Champagne André Jacquart has been located in the village of Vertus. Major work was undertaken, and the fifth generation, represented by Marie Doyard (the grandchild of André Jacquart) stepped in to run the business and inspire it with her own philosophy. Winemaker is Floriane Eznack. (Champagne André Jacquart should not be confused with Champagne Jacquart, a cooperative founded in 1964 that expanded from 30 to 1,800 growers today and for which Floriane Eznack is also the enologist.)

The Andre Jacquart “Experience” Brut Rosé, nv., is a blend of 80 percent pinot noir, from Premier Cru vineyards, and 20 percent chardonnay, from Grand Cru vineyards; it aged three years in the bottle on the lees. The color is a brilliant blood orange-cerise hue, enlivened by a lively host of winking silver bubbles; exuberant notes of strawberries and raspberries burst from the glass, wreathed with lightly toasted brioche, orange zest and lime peel, though the emotional nature of this initial outpouring quickly tempers itself, via elements of seashell and flint minerality, to spare elegance. This Champagne is quite dry, framed upon bones and stones, yet pleasing in its medium bodied effect on the palate; bright acidity keeps it crisp and dynamic, while delicate touches of citrus and stone-fruit thread through to a satisfying finish. 12 percent alcohol. An absolute winner as an aperitif or with lighter fare at the table. Excellent. About $46.
Imported by Esprit du Vin, Syosset, New York.
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Now here’s a product that delivers a full-throated version of the brut rosé style at a terrific price. The Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir Brut Rosé Cava 100 percent pinot noir, grown in a vineyard where the elevation ranges from 825 to 1,650 feet. It’s made in the traditional method of aging the wine in bottle on the yeast to achieve the necessary effervescence, in this case from 18 months to two years. The color is a lovely blood orange-cerise, and with the silvery bubbles swarming in an upward glinting tempest, just the appearance is almost seductive enough. Aromas of spiced and macerated strawberries and raspberries carry hints of red apple, heather and herbes de Provence, with high notes of jasmine and almond blossom. Pretty heady stuff, all right. This sparkling wine is rich and fairly creamy, but riven by pert acidity, a fairly chiseled limestone element and a sassy touch of candied orange peel. 12 percent alcohol. I call it Excellent and at about $16, a Real Bargain.
Imported by MundoVino, a member of The Winebow Group, New York.
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