… and no Champagne today but two examples of products from regions in France that use the “champagne method” or, as it’s usually called now, the méthode traditionelle, for sparkling wines in the Crémant mode. Both of these models, priced at $20, offer good value, especially if you’re looking for sparkling wine to serve at a dinner party or small gathering.

These wines were samples for review.

With its shimmering pale gold hue and finely-tuned froth of abundant, tiny bubbles, the Vincent Crémant de Bourgogne, nv, delivers lovely tone and presence. Made 100 percent from chardonnay grapes farmed on sustainable practices, this Crémant offers notes of pear, orange zest and lime peel with hints of almond blossom and hay; it’s quite dry, framed by limestone and a touch of salinity, yet ripe and tasty with citrus and stone-fruit and a shade of mango. 12 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $20, representing Great Value.
Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York.

The Willm Brut Prestige Crémant d’Alsace, nv, is a blend of 80 percent chardonnay, 15 percent pinot blanc and 5 percent auxerrois. The color is pale gold, enlivened by a host of glinting tiny bubbles; notes of spiced pear, quince and ginger unfurl subtle touches of heather and orange blossom. Spanking fresh acidity lends crispness and appeal on the palate, where limestone and flint minerality provide structure and energy. The overall impression is of nuance and delicacy, aimed toward a chiseled finish. 12 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $20, marking Great Value.
Imported by Monsieur Touton, New York.

Today, December 27, is the feast of Saint John, Apostle and Evangelist, Jesus’ “Beloved Disciple.” He wrote the Book of Revelations — in the worst Greek in the entire New testament — and the Fourth Gospel. He is the patron of writers, theologians and publishers.

Jane Wilde, Oscar Wilde’s mother was born on this day in 1821. Also Louis Pasteur (1822), Sydney Greenstreet (1879), Marlene Dietrich (1901), Oscar Levant (1906) and Scotty Moore (1931).