Here’s the third in a row of a trio of Italian red wines that I offer as Wine of the Day. This is the Marchesi di Gresy Barbera d’Asti 2015, a model of the type for its restrained winemaking and its integrity toward the grape. In an area where estates have been seduced by the siren call of new French oak barrels — apparently believing that Americans prefer wines that exhibit the presence of toasty oak, coconut and vanilla — Marchesi di Gresy instead ages this wine a mere five months in wood, partially in second- and third-year barriques and partially in large Slavonian casks. The result is a Barbera d’Asti notable for its clean, fresh, pure character. The color is rich, warm ruby-magenta; scents and flavors of sour cherry and raspberry are infused with notes of cherry pit and stem and a hint of pomegranate; a few minutes in the glass bring out touches of violets and orange rind. This dry, spare wine is sleek and lithe, powered by squinching acidity that refreshes the palate with each sip; an element of wild blueberries also emerges, all qualities supported by moderately stated and subtly hewn tannins. 14 percent alcohol. A perfect wine for a selection of salumi or pizzas or hearty pasta dishes — pappardelle with rabbit or Bolognese comes to mind. Drink now through 2020 to ’22. Excellent. About $18, marking Good Value.

Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.