Poggio al Tufo is a project centered in Tuscany’s Maremma region, Grosseto district, launched by Tommasi, the well-known producer of Amarone in the Veneto. Tommasi purchased 163 acres there in 1997, planting or replanting vineyards that lie approximately 1,000 feet above sea level in volcanic rock called tufo, Poggio al Tufo meaning, approximately, “the hillside of tufo soil.” Our Wine of the Day is the Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2014, Toscana, a blend of 60 percent sangiovese and 40 percent cabernet sauvignon that aged one year in traditional Slavonian oak barrels of 65-hectoliter size; that’s a hair more than 1,717 gallons, so, yes, big barrels. The color is dark ruby that shades to a bright magenta rim; aromas of macerated and slightly stewed black and red currants and plums are permeated by notes of orange rind, oolong tea and graphite; a few moments in the glass unfurl hints of lavender, violets and bittersweet chocolate. It’s a dry wine that’s impressive for its heft and presence on the palate, though never obvious or ponderous; sleek, chiseled tannins and coursing acidity make for a lithe, supple texture that forms the perfect backdrop for well-spiced black currant and blackberry flavors, all these elements concluding in a long, concentrated bracing finish. 13 percent alcohol. Drink through 2021 to ’24, and bring on the medium-rare ribeye steak, hot and crusty from the grill, or the braised short ribs or the rack of venison. Excellent. About $18, representing Great Value.

Imported by Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, N.Y. A sample for review.