I don’t often feature chardonnays in this Wine of the Day series, but when I find a
chardonnay that’s well-made, accessible and inexpensive, well, I have to go with it. Olema is the second label of Amici Cellars, a specialist in single-vineyard wines. The Olema Chardonnay 2016, Sonoma County, however, offers a more general interpretation of a Sonoma wine, derived 90 percent from vineyards in Russian River Valley and 10 percent from vineyards in the wide-spread Sonoma Coast region. The wine was fashioned in a deft combination of 50 percent stainless steel tanks and 50 percent French oak, 30 percent new barrels. (Winemaker was Jesse Fox.) The color is pale straw-gold; clean and fresh aromas of apple and quince, ginger and grapefruit are immediately appealing, while hints of mango, orange blossom and smoke add intrigue. A damp stone background and bright acidity cut through a moderately lush texture, providing support for slightly roasted pineapple and grapefruit flavors, the entire package displaying lovely vitality and poise. 13.8 percent alcohol. Now through 2018. Very Good+. About $15.

A sample for review.