At a mere 450 hectares — about 1,100 acres — Côtes de Francs is Bordeaux’s smallest appellation, occupying the highest slopes overlooking the Dordogne river 10 kilometers east of Saint- Emilion. It was granted AOC status in 1967, largely because of the influence of the Thienpont family, which bought Chateau Puygueraud there in 1946 and worked unceasingly to improve the estate, not producing a wine until 1983. In 1988, Nicolas Thienpont and his brothers bought Les Charmes-Godard, a property of 6.5 hectares — slightly more than 16 acres — that makes red, white and sweet wines. Our Wine of the Day is Chateau Les Charmes-Godard 2014, Côtes de Francs, a white wine composed of 50 percent semillon grapes, 35 percent sauvignon gris and 15 percent sauvignon blanc. (The appellation is noted for the predominance of semillon in its white wines.) The estate keeps new oak to a minimum of 25 percent and does not put the white wines through malolactic. What a bargain-priced beauty this one is, and drinking perfectly at three years old. The color is mild straw-gold; aromas of red apple skin, lemongrass, lime peel and roasted lemon unfold scents of lemon balm and spiced pear; bright acidity lends the wine a fleet-footed air, cutting through a lovely talc-like but lithe and supple texture. A few minutes in the glass bring in hints of hay and green leafiness, with just a touch of fig in the limestone swathed finish. 13 percent alcohol. Drink through 2019 or ’20, properly stored. Excellent. About $20, representing Great Value.

Imported by Fruit of the Vine, New York. A sample for review.