… and it’s Beaujolais again. Looks as if I have a theme going here, but I promise that the sequence is coincidental. The Wine of the Day for this post is the Paul Durdilly et Fils “Les Grandes Coasses” Beaujolais 2016, the designation indicating the basic level in Beaujolais — under Beaujolais-Villages and the 10 cru Beaujolais — but belying that position in its intense and generous expression of the gamay grape. In fact, this example will make you rethink your evaluation of this basic category. The estate’s 30 acres of vines grow on limestone; the vineyards — 40 to 80 years old — are tended using sustainable practices. The grapes ferment with native yeast, and the wine ages in a combination of steel tanks and old large oak foudres. The color is bright purple-magenta shading to a transparent rim; the wine is fresh and appealing, lively and engaging; it features a compote of ripe and spicy blackberries and currants permeated by notes of violets and lavender and graphite, with undertones of smoke and tar. The wine is sleek, lithe, supple and quite delicious on the palate, animated by vigorous acidity and driven by a coalition of briers and brambles over a fleet-footed foundation of deft granitic minerality and slightly dusty tannins, all the while never losing sight of its focus on the principle of pure, ripe, drinkable pleasure. 12.5 percent alcohol. Astonishing detail and dimension for its class and price. Excellent. Prices range from about $11 to $15, making this wine an Amazing Freak-Ass Bargain.

North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. A sample for review from the local distributor.