The term “steen” in the name of today’s wine, The Royal Old Vines Steen Chenin Blanc 2016, Western Cape, is the name that the chenin blanc grape traditionally goes by in South Africa. Made all in stainless steel tanks, the wine brings forward all the engaging qualities of chenin blanc at a remarkable price. The color is pale gold; the impression is immediately bright, clean and fresh, with scents of lime peel and pear, a slightly tropical hint of guava and gardenia, and in the background the grape’s signature notes of hay and heather. A lovely texture deftly balances a crisp edge with modest lushness to balance flavors of spiced peach and pear with seashell and limestone minerality and a fairly bracing saline finish. 13 percent alcohol. This wine is a product of Riebeek Wine Cellars, where the winemaker is Eric Saayman. Drink as a tasty aperitif or with light fish and seafood dishes. Very Good+. About $11, marking Wonderful Value.

Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, Va. A sample for review.