Some wines grow more detailed, revealing more dimension and intrigue, as the moments pass. Such a one is the Strasserhof Sylvaner 2015, from the Valle Isarco in Italy’s northeastern Alto Adige-Sudtirol region. The grapes fermented in and the wine aged seven months in 75 percent stainless steel tanks and 25 percent large oak barrels. The color is a pure light gold hue; aromas of spiced pear, quince and ginger feel slightly honeyed and earthy, while a few minutes unfurl notes of lime peel and limestone. The wine is quite lively and frisky, almost prickly on the palate, and though silky-smooth feels slightly sanded, as if a gentle hand applied strokes of delicate sandpaper. More time induces hints of peaches and jasmine, along with beguiling touches of wood-smoke and exotic spices, banana and fig; the lean, lithe finish adds spare elements of lychee, petrol and flint. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink through 2019 or ’20 with trout sauteed in capers and brown butter, pike quenelles, seafood risottos or, taking a different approach, roasted chicken. Excellent. About $22.

Vias Imports, N.Y. A sample for review.