Winemaker Chris Williams produces an array of pinot noirs for Brooks Wines every year, but today we looks at his basic or entry-level model, the Brooks Runaway Red Pinot Noir 2015, derived from nine vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Yes, that’s a depiction of Leon Trotsky on the label. The wine fermented by native yeast and aged 10 months in French oak barrels. The color is a beguiling transparent medium ruby-magenta hue; elevating aromas of spiced and macerated black and red cherries and currants take on, after a few moments in the glass, a cast of ripe raspberry and the slight rasp of raspberry leaf and stem; all of these immensely pleasing elements segue seamlessly to the palate, where they expand into notes of woodsmoke, tobacco and balsam. Plenty of loamy, rooty qualities betoken a grasp of the vineyards and their underlying strata, all upheld by incisive acidity and a finish lightly tinged by iodine and graphite. 13.6 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2019 through 2022. Excellent. About $23.

A sample for review.