Here’s a German riesling for true lovers of German rieslings. The Heitlinger Tiefenbacher Schellenbrunnen Riesling Trocken 2014, Baden, hails from the town of Tiefenbach; the vineyard is Schellenbrunnen, designated Grosses Gewachs, something akin to a Grand Cru in Burgundy or First Growth in Bordeaux. This classification is indicated on the label by the “GG” emblem. The color is very pale, a shimmering light straw-gold hue; aromas of green apples and spiced pears are highlighted by penetrating notes of limestone, petrol and gunflint, this heady amalgam unfurling hints of peach and lychee, heather and hay. At slightly more than two-and-a-half years old, this tense, taut and vibrant riesling has attained a state of pure minerality on the palate, where it defines the notion of “bone-dry”; in fact, there’s something bony about its structure, in the sense, for example, that we consider high cheekbones — especially in women — a sign of elegance and breeding, yet the texture delivers a touch of talc-like softness that keeps the whole project from being forbidding; austere it is, yes, particularly on the whip-lash, chiseled finish, but not characterized by Olympian detachment. A few minutes in the glass free up scents of jasmine, honeysuckle and lemongrass. This is, in other words, a captivating, even thrilling riesling that delivers pinpoint and crystalline virtues at every level of its varietal nature. 12.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2022 to ’25. Exceptional. About $30.

Imported by WineWise, Oakland, Calif. A sample for review.