tommasi
Here’s a Summery pinot grigio to remind you that the grape doesn’t have to produce bland, insipid, watery wines intended for mindless consumption. Tommasi “Le Rosse” Pinot Grigio 2016, Delle Venezia, displays a pale straw-gold hue and offers pleasing aromas of heather and sea salt, roasted lemons and almond blossom, white pepper, verbena and quince, all seamlessly meshed with zephyr-like ease and delicacy. The wine is quite sprightly on the palate, surprisingly dense and lithe; totally dry, it builds nuances of dried Mediterranean herbs, lemongrass, spiced pears and a kind of sunny-leafy quality that makes it eminently attractive and drinkable. From mid-palate back through the finish, a tide of limestone and flint minerality seeps in for crystalline structure. A comfortable 12 percent alcohol. Drink through the end of 2017 and into 2018 with grilled shrimp, tuna tartar, virtually any roasted or grilled fish, preferably pulled right from its watery lair before being cleaned and thrown on the fire. Excellent. About $17, representing Real Value.

Imported by Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, N.Y. A sample for review.