Vitiano_Rosato_USA_new_label_1
Here’s a terrifically appealing rosé wine from Umbria, offered at an irresistible price. The Falesco Vitiano Rosato 2016 is a blend of 30 percent each sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon with 10 percent aleatico, a grape little-found outside of a band that crosses Italy mid-shin to calf and reaching down to the heel. The color in the accompanying image is deceptive; the wine is actually much paler and more delicate in the light peach-melon range. Peaches, as a matter of fact, and strawberries, lightly etched with watermelon, characterize the wine both in the nose and on the palate, along with notes of heather and dried thyme, pink grapefruit and damp slate, all energized by a firm sweep of taut acidity; a hint of limestone draws the finish out nicely. All of these elements, as well as a texture balanced between lush and lithe, are melded with utmost elegance and ethereal grace. 12 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $12, representing Raving Fine Value.

Leonardo LoCascio Selections, Winebow Group, New York. A sample for review.