Shooting Star is the second label of Steele Wines, both under the watchful eye of the ubiquitous Jed Steele, who has been a leading blue francfigure in the California wine industry since the late 1960s. I’ll have more to say about Steele Wines and different selections from Shooting Star in the next few weeks, but today I want to feature a particular bottle as Wine of the Day. The Shooting Star Blue Franc 2013, Washington State, is made from the blaufrankisch grape that is indigenous to areas of Austria, is found in Germany under the names lemburger and limburger, and for some reason in small quantities in Washington State, where it generally carries the Lemburger name. Perhaps the marketing is not ideal, since that’s also the name of a very stinky cheese. Jed Steele, for his bottling, referred back to the Austrian name, trading on verbal and visual puns at several levels, and came up with the name Blue Franc. Though the grapes derive from the well-known Horse Heaven Hills vineyard in the Destiny Ridge AVA, the wine carries the general Washington State designation. It sees no oak aging. The color is dark ruby-mulberry; pungent aromas of cloves and lavender, macerated black currants, blueberries and plums, are permeated by notes of oolong tea and orange rind, tar and loam. Vigorous acidity and dusty tannins laced with graphite minerality form the foundation for tasty black and blue fruit flavors keenly etched with wild cherry, dried thyme and black pepper. It’s a robust and rustic wine in the best sense, wholly satisfying as accompaniment to all sorts of grilled fare — ribs, pork chops, steaks, burgers — as well as hearty pizzas and pasta dishes. Now through 2019 or ’20. Very Good+. About $14, representing Great Value.

A sample for review.