Wed 19 Apr 2017
Many white wine blends possess a certain kitchen sink quality, as in “Let’s throw in a bunch of different white grapes and see how they work together,” with the result that the wines smell and taste like nothing but generic white wine. That’s not the case with the Brooks Wines Amycas 2016, Willamette Valley, a blend of 44 percent riesling, 21 percent muscat, 18 pinot blanc, 10 gewurztraminer and 7 pinot gris, and those who are fans of the white blends of Alsace called Edelzwicker will recognize the ancestry. Made all in stainless steel, from grapes grown in Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards, this delightful wine offers a very pale gold hue and aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle, delicate notes of peaches and spiced pears, hay and heather, with a background of damp limestone. It’s terrifically appealing and animated, bright with crisp acidity and ethereally juicy with citrus and stone-fruit flavors — touches of tangerine, lime peel and quince — and while there’s just a slight lean toward sweetness, that aspect comes across more as ripeness and roundness on the palate. The limestone element burgeons from mid-palate back through the finish, which concludes on a welcome bracing note of grapefruit pith and sea-breeze salinity. 13.5 percent alcohol. Thoroughly charming and delicious. We drank a few glasses with seared salmon with a juniper rub and cous-cous with preserved lemon. Now through 2018. Excellent. About $18.
A sample for review.