Verdeca_13
If you enjoy trying wines made from unusual or obscure grape varieties, this one is for you. The Masseria Li Veli Verdeca 2015, Valle d’Itria, is made from 90 percent verdeca grapes, an Apulian variety that thrived in ancient times but languished for centuries until the Falvo family made a concerted effort to revive it. The other 10 percent is fiano minutolo, also not exactly a household term. The wine sees no oak and is all the better for the lack. The color is pure medium gold lightly touched with green; heather and hay characterize a bouquet that offers intense notes of roasted lemons and pears, hints of tangerine and fig and dried thyme and a definite seashore-briny element; on the palate, the wine is lively and attentive, bristling with slightly honeyed tones of spicy stone fruit flavors propelled by crisp acidity, though there’s a sense in which it tends toward lushness and exuberant presence; it’s a bit leafy, also, blithe and sunny, a golden wine minted for pleasure. 14 percent alcohol. Now through 2018 for accompanying grilled and roasted fish, seafood risottos or stews. Excellent. About $18 and definitely Worth a Search.

Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.