Tue 7 Mar 2017
It rained like crazy here this morning, but then the downpour retreated, the clouds blew away to the east and the sun emerged, happy and jolly and warm(ish). A perfect afternoon for sitting on the back porch and sipping a glass of Prosecco, along with a handful of almonds, a few slivers of Serrano ham and a small bowl of plump green olives. If you grow weary, a-weary of Prosecco that comes across all kissy-face floral and fruity and then dies away in the glass, here’s the antidote. The Voveti Prosecco is made from 100 percent glera grapes grown in the Prosecco region of the Veneto, primarily in the privileged spot called Valdobbiadene; the grapes are trucked in small boxes to the winery in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and the sparkling wine is produced there in the Charmat fashion of second fermentation in tank. In fact, from grape to glass takes 12 months, so we’re not talking Champagne, n’est-ce pas? What we are talking, instead, is charm and delicacy — and tiny glinting, surging bubbles — married to a steely, limestone-infused structure that supports subtle notes of green apple, smoke and almond blossom, lime peel, jasmine and seashell, this panoply melded with the tensile energy of brilliant acidity. There it is, and why should we ask for anything more, given the price and the intention. 11 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $17, often discounted to $13 or $14.
A sample from the local wholesaler.