Dr. Konstantin Frank emigrated to the United States in 1951. Born in Odessa in 1899, Frank was an expert in growing vitis vinifera grapes — traditional European wine grapes — in temperatures cold enough to be thought unsuitable. He worked as a dishwasher in New York until he could afford to move his family upstate to Cornell University’s Geneva Experiment Station in 1953. While three centuries of DF 2015 Gewurztraminer growing only native American or hybrid grapes in the Finger Lakes region seemed to mitigate against Frank’s ideas and experience, the release of his first wine, a Trockenbeerenauslese Johannisberg Riesling 1962 made from botrytized grapes, pretty much settled the argument and transformed vineyard practices and winemaking in the Finger Lakes. Konstantin Frank died in 1985, by which time his winery had passed through the hands of his son Willy. In 1993, Willy’s son Fred Frank took over as president, with his sister Barbara as consulting winemaker; his daughter Meaghan recently joined the four-generation family business.

The wine selected as Wine of the Day, No. 223, is the Dr. Konstantin Frank Gewurztraminer 2015, Finger Lakes, and I might as well say at the beginning that it is one of the most beautiful gewurztraminer wines I have encountered. The color is very pale straw-gold; deliriously heady aromas of lychee, peach and gardenia, almond skin and tangerine open to scents of lemon balm and pear nectar, laved over layers of flint and limestone. Made completely in stainless steel, the wine attains a state, after an hour or so, of pure scintillating minerality and glittering acidity, though these rigorous, crystalline elements do not preclude initial phases of ripe, slightly honeyed and macerated stone-fruit flavors and an ultimate sense of innate, racy liveliness and vibrancy. 12.7 percent alcohol. I’ll admit to being knocked sideways by the glamour and intensity of this wine, which still manages to sustain a quality of delicacy and intimacy. Drink now through 2020 to ’23. Exceptional. And the price of this paragon? About $15, marking a Freaking Bargain of the Century.

A sample for review, as I am required to inform My Readers by the Federal Trade Commission.