For the first Wine of the Day for the fledgling 2017, I offer the ZD Winery Founder’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2013, Carneros, not a cheap one but certainly a great one. A distinction the winery owns is that its initial release, a pinot noir from the vintage 1969, was the first wine to carry the designation “Carneros” on the label. ZD was founded by aerospace engineers Norman deLeuze and Gino Zepponi. After Zepponi died in 1985, deLeuze and his wife Rosa Lee acquired their late partner’s share in the winery. Norman deLeuze died in 2007, and the second and third generations operate every aspect of the winery now. Winemaker is Chris Pisani; assistant winemaker is Brandon deLeuze.

The ZD Winery Founder’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2013, Carneros, displays a medium transparent ruby hue that shades to delicate garnet at the rim; it’s an exotic and seductive pinot noir whose aromas are like a mac├ędoine of marinated red cherries and currants, cranberries and pomegranates infused with sassafras and sandalwood, all highlighted by notes of cherry skin and melon drops and a kind of resinous/cedary loamy character. Pretty damned heady stuff, all right. The wine spent about 15 months in French oak barriques, resulting in a pinot noir of lovely suppleness and satiny weight on the palate, as well as blithe hints of cloves and cumin. It’s quite dry, a little foresty, a little untamed but beautifully balanced and finely wrought, as power and energy underlie its ultimately elegant nature in seamless equilibrium. 14.2 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2018 to ’20. Production was about 800 cases. Exceptional. About $75, and definitely Worth a Search.

A sample for review.