Mon 2 Jan 2017
I urge My Readers to seek out the Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Sekt Brut 2012, from Germany’s Pfalz region. This bottle was a sample from the local distributor, and while the current vintage seems to be 2014, I recommend the 2012 for its suppleness and burnished quality, like old silver polished to a noble, darkened sheen. It’s 100 percent riesling, aged on the yeast in bottle for 12 months. The color is the palest of pale gold hues, and the rush of tiny glinting bubbles is tempestuous. Amazingly clean, fresh, pure and scintillating, this sparkler features notes of green apple and lightly bruised pear, with undertones of wood smoke, limestone and chalk; a few minutes in the glass bring out touches of freshly baked biscuits and cloves, toffee and a bit of coffee in the background as an expression of earthiness. This sparkling wine is crisp and very dry, bracing with bright acidity and seashell salinity, vibrant and resonant over tremendous reserves of limestone and shale minerality, all at the service of slightly over-ripe and decadent stone-fruit flavors. 12.5 percent alcohol. Drink through 2018. Excellent. About $20.
A Rudi Wiest Selection, Cellars International, San Marcos, Calif.