Let’s say that you’re braising a passel of short ribs or lamb shanks for dinner tonight, and why wouldn’t you? It’s as cold as a witch’s 2013_old_vine_label_rgb tit in a brass brassiere in most parts of the country, and hearty fare is called for. The wine I would go for — among hundreds if not thousands of equally legitimate choices, of course — is the Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel 2014, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. How old are the vines? Between 95 and 100 years old, which I would say qualifies for pretty ancient on anyone’s scale. This classic zinfandel blend that contains 19 percent petite sirah and three percent carignane, the grapes dry-farmed and head-pruned, aged 16 months in French, Hungarian and American oak. The color is vibrant dark ruby with a purple rim; while nothing here is plummy or jammy or overstated, the aromas of ripe boysenberries, black cherries and blackberries, feeling steeped in cloves and allspice, lavender and violets, black tea and graphite, are heady indeed; a few minutes in the glass bring in notes of iodine and iron, making for a kind of ferrous-minty-loamy quality. Mouth-filling, sleek and supple on the palate, this zinfandel flows through the mouth with confidence and poised, weighty presence, buoyed by ripe, spicy black fruit flavors and propelled by zinging acidity that drives through to a spice-and-mineral-packed finish. A sane 14.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2019 to ’21. Excellent. About $32.

A sample for review. The label illustration is laggard by one vintage.