Thomas George Estates specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay wines from single vineyard sites in Sonoma County’s george-pnRussian River Valley, but winemaker John Wilson also produces these varieties under a general Russian River designation. Our Wine of the Day is the pinot noir from that overall AVA, and, Readers, it’s a honey. The Thomas George Estates Pinot Noir 2012, Russian River Valley, aged 11 months in French oak, only 37 percent new barrels — in oak except for six percent in concrete. The color is transparent medium ruby that shades infinitesimally to an invisible rim; aromas of sweet black and red cherries and currants are permeated by piquant notes of pomegranate and cranberry, sassafras and sage, with tantalizing hints of tobacco and wood-smoke. It’s all just really lovely, and it gets lovelier, as some time in the glass brings in touches of red licorice and lavender, new leather and oolong tea. On the palate, this pinot noir is lithe, supple and satiny, flowing across the tongue in a manner that’s a little quiet and studied yet also animated by bright acidity; red and black fruit flavors carry a slight graphite edge that precedes a glimpse of lightly dusted and sanded tannins. Exquisitely balanced, with grace and elegance. 14.3 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2018 to 2020. I have not tasted the single vineyard offerings from Thomas George Estates, but I cannot imagine them being any better than this. Production was 2,398 cases. Excellent. About $43.

A sample for review.