If readers live in the New York area or perhaps in New England generally, they should look for lenzthe Lenz Winery Cuvee 2012, from an estate founded in 1978 in the North Fork of Long Island. (That’s the AVA.) Made from 100 percent pinot noir grapes, hence technically a blanc de noirs, this well-made sparkling wine offers a pale gold hue shimmering with an energetic fountain of tiny glinting bubbles; notes of roasted lemons and spiced pears, quince and ginger are lent pertness by lively acidity and a scintillating seashell-limestone element; these contribute a bit of bracing salinity to the finish. Touched with slightly yeasty brioche, but clean, fresh and vivid, this sparkler is quite dry though tasty with hints of lemon balm and willow, smoke and steel, ultimately delicate and elegant. 12 percent alcohol. Winemaker was Eric Fry. Drink now through 2018 to ’20. Excellent. About $40.

A sample for review.