Argentina’s torront├ęs grape seems to be somewhat like cilantro; people love it or hate it. alamos-torrontesGranted that the white wine made from this grape can be overwhelmingly floral, even cloying in its tropical, slightly decayed flowery aromas, but if kept under control and delivered with more subtlety — I mean a tiny bit more subtlety — the wine can be seductively attractive and delicious, though rather simple in a good-hearted way. In the pale-gold Alamos Torront├ęs 2015, from the country’s mile-high Salta region, the winery manages to toe the line. Oh yes, it’s floral, all right. Aromas of jasmine and gardenia segue to lilac and chamomile, but folded in are notes of roasted lemons and spiced pears, lemongrass and green tea. Pert acidity keeps the wine lively and engaging, yielding hints of sun-drenched leafy figs and greengage and just enough limestone and flint minerality to maintain an even keel. 13 percent alcohol. Nothing to worry your pretty little heads about, My Readers, but a wine to enjoy sipping while you’re in the kitchen prepping for dinner or with ceviche or seafood risottos. Drink up. Very Good+. About $13 and often discounted as low as $9.

A sample for review.