Tenuta Filodora is a 37-acre vineyard located in the town of Miane, in the heart of the Prosecco DOCG area, about halfway between Valdobiaddene and Conegliano. It’s from this vineyard that filodoraTommasi, a stalwart of the Veneto region since 1902, derives the glera grapes for its Prosecco. However, because the wine is bottled outside the DOCG region, it is entitled only to a DOC classification. Not to worry! The Tommasi Filodora Prosecco is one of the best around. The color is the palest of pale gold hues, animated by a torrent of upward-surging tiny platinum bubbles. At first, this sparkling wine is all smoke and steel, and then it opens to glimmers of green apple and peach, hints of roasted lemon and baked pear, a touch of acacia. Bright acidity (and the persistent effervescence) keep it lively and dry on the palate, where it partakes of a seriously serious aura of flint and limestone minerality, all hurtling toward a finish pert with grapefruit rind and almond skin. 11.5 percent alcohol. Totally charming. Excellent. About $18.

Imported by Vintus LLC, Pleasantville N.Y. A sample for review.