Thu 16 Jun 2016
Champ de Rêves was founded in 2010 to exploit the potential of the 85-acre Boone Ridge Vineyard that lies at 1,400 to 2,000 feet above sea level in Mendocino County’s cool-climate Anderson Valley. The winery is a project of Jackson Family Wines. Winemaker is Eric Johannsen, who previously worked at such pinot noir-centric wineries as La Crema, Cuvaison and Williams Selyem. The Champ de Rêves Pinot Noir 2013, Anderson Valley, aged nine months in French oak, 32 percent new barrels, the sort of judicious use of wood that I like to see. The name means “field of dreams,” and indeed the wine is a sort of drowsy daydream of pinot noir beauty. The color is dark ruby shading to transparent magenta; aromas of ripe and smoky black cherries and plums are permeated by notes of violets and rose petals, and the whole package blossoms with hints of heather and loam, cloves and sandalwood, lavender and licorice, a cedar box of dried spices and potpourri. The texture is superbly sleek and shapely, its lovely suppleness animated by bright acidity and an elusive edge of graphite minerality. Give the wine a few moments, and it brings up elements of pomegranate and cranberry and layers of underbrush, briers and brambles. It’s quite dry, and after an hour or so expands into considerable tannins, slightly dusty, chiseled and flecked with ebony. 14.5 percent alcohol. A marvelous expression of the grape from a high-altitude vineyard, for drinking through 2020 to ’23 with roasted chicken, seared magret of duck, squab or pork tenderloin. Exceptional About $45.
A sample for review.