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Oak Farm Vineyards occupies the former estate of William Devries, who purchased the property in 1860, built a colonial-style mansion in 1876 and became a justice of the peace in addition to being a well-known wheat-farmer and raiser of cattle. He was, in others words, a force to reckon with in Lodi. Many of the original oak trees he planted still stand, as well as the restored house. Oak Farm Vineyards produces primarily red wines, which I’ll mention in a later post, but its albariƱo should not be missed. Deriving from the Silvaspoons Vineyard in Lodi’s Alta Mesa sub-AVA and the Wetmore Vineyard in the Jahant sub-AVA, the Oak Farm AlbariƱo 2015, Lodi, made completely in stainless steel, displays a pale straw gold hue and enticing aromas of spiced pears and roasted lemons, heather and dried thyme, jasmine, almond skin and acacia flower. It’s a dry wine, wonderfully fresh and appealing, lively and engaging, but showing some of the grape’s slightly bristly, dusty limestone and flint character under tasty stone-fruit flavors, all buoyed by bright acidity. The whole package is extremely attractive. 13 percent alcohol. Drink through 2017 as aperitif or with seafood risottos, grilled fish or fresh oysters. Production was 410 cases. Excellent. About $19.

A sample for review.