Wed 9 Mar 2016
Here’s an irresistible bargain in a white wine from Umbria’s Falesco estate. Composed of 50 percent each vermentino and verdicchio grapes and made completely in stainless steel, the Vitiano Bianco 2014, Umbria IGP, displays a pale straw-gold hue with a faint tinge of ghostly green; aromas of lemon and lemon balm, pear and peach open to hints of thyme and heather, jasmine and almond blossom; a few minutes in the glass add a dimension of lilac, gunflint and talc. It’s a spicy, savory and slightly saline white wine that features lip-smacking acidity and intensity and nicely chiseled layers of limestone and flint; the finish brings in more of the mineral element as well as a final fillip of cloves and slightly dusty rosemary. 12.5 percent alcohol. Begs for fresh oysters shucked from the shell, clam linguine or seafood risotto; also good as an aperitif. Very Good+. About $13 and often discounted to $10.
A Leonardo Locascio Selection for Winebow Group, New York. A sample for review.