I like the bonarda grape. Left pretty much to itself in the winery, given a minimum of oak exposure, it makes decent, direct and full-bodied wines suited to, you know, decent, direct and full-bodied food. As is the case with even the most unpretentious grapes, Argento Bonarda 2012 Blends USA front_0bonarda, grown principally now in Argentina, possesses a rather nebulous or even confusing history and sports a range of synonyms. It shares DNA with the douce noir grape that originated in France’s Savoie region and is the same as the charbono, once a cult grape in California and now much diminished in plantings, meaning down to about 88 acres. (I tasted charbono wines made by Inglenook from the 1970s and ’80s, years ago, and they were superb.) Anyway, this Wine of the Day is the Argento Bonarda 2013, from Argentina’s Mendoza region. It spent four months in American oak barrels, just enough time to firm up the structure and lend the wine a spicy, cedary background. The color is opaque black-purple with a faint ruby-red rim; the wine is ripe, fleshy and meaty, both dense and elevated by black currant and cherry and blueberry scents and flavors permeated by notes of bell pepper, dried thyme and lavender. Robust, certainly, dry and dusty with tannins but overall sleek and chiseled in structure. A few moments in the glass bring up a distinctly graphite and granitic mineral element. 13.5 percent alcohol. Winemaker was Silvia Corti. Drink now through 2017 with burgers, steaks, braised shanks and short ribs, or, what the hell, cheese toast. Very Good+. About $14, representing Real Value.

Imported by Blends, Plymouth, Calif. A sample for review.