Sun 4 Oct 2015
Eating at one of our favorite local fine dining restaurants Friday night, this wine, served as aperitif, was a revelation. The Schloss Gobelsburg “Gobelsburger” Riesling 2013, Kamptal, Austria, originates from an estate that can date its heritage back to 1171, when the monks of Zwettl Monastery were granted the right to plant vines. In the 900 or so years that followed, the property changed hands many times, sometimes owned by the church, often by private owners, until 1996, when Schloss Gobelsburg and the whole estate were taken on a long-term lease by Willi Bründlmayer and Michael Moosbrugger. The center of the estate is the castle, actually a Renaissance palace updated during the Baroque period. The property consists of six vineyards encompassing 35 hectares spread over terraced hillsides of mica-schist and gneiss and hollows between hills where the soil is more loess and loam. These vineyards are treated separately as expressions of individual terroir and micro-climate. Fifty percent of the grapes cultivated are gruner veltliner, along with 25 percent riesling with the rest in red grapes, 8 percent zweigelt, 7 percent St. Laurent, and 5 percent each blauburgunder (pinot noir) and merlot.
The Schloss Gobelsburg “Gobelsburger” Riesling 2013 is perhaps the most radiantly pure and intense riesling I have tasted this year. The color is a beguiling pale straw-gold hue that practically shimmers in the glass; notes of lemon balm and lime peel, lemongrass and peach are seamlessly woven with a bare hint of lychee and touches of dusty limestone. These elements segue deftly onto the palate, where the wine’s mineral character burgeons into a simmering and scintillating — but never overwrought — attitude of stony rectitude that does not preclude an almost winsome citrus and stone-fruit nature decked with the subtlest quality of cloves and jasmine. The inextricable amalgam of flowers, fruit and talc-like minerality, energized by bright and piercing acidity, is delicious, provocative and unforgettable. NA% alcohol. Drink now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. According to wine-searcher.com, the average national price is about $18, marking a Rare Unimpeachable Value.
A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.