For the Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant 2011, Central Coast, owner and winemaker Randall Grahm drew grapes from eight vineyards located all the way from Contra Costa County in the north to Santa Maria Valley in the south. The blend of this Rhone Valley-inspired wine is 37 percent mourvèdre, 34 percent grenache, 20 percent syrah and nine percent cinsault. The color is a rich and radiant dark to medium ruby hue; the bouquet is a complex weaving of fresh and dried red and black raspberries and currants, with notes of mulberry, cloves, sandalwood and rosemary (with a sight touch of the herb’s resinous edge) and undertones of loam, moss, burning leaves and tobacco-leaf. The mood, then, is autumnal, earthy, almost nostalgic; you could even call this wine old-fashioned in its repudiation of plushness, opulence, alcoholic heat and super-ripeness. It is — no surprise — quite dry, riveting in its blazing acidity and dusty, graphite-infused tannins, though neither these tannins nor the subtle, supple oak halo exert undue influence; rather, the intention is to give the wine a spare, faceted structure that will age well while supporting its elegant and mildly spicy black and red fruit effects. 14.2 percent alcohol. Production was 2,527 cases. We drank this bottle with a medium rare flank-steak salad (tomatoes, arugula and avocado) with a shallot vinaigrette. It would also serve well with more robust fare, particularly, in the ideal of my mind’s eye, with roasted venison or pheasant, rabbit pappardelle or something English, like steak-and-kidney pie. Now through 2021 to 2024. Excellent. About $45.

A sample for review.