We’ll resume the Wine of the Day series — and posting to the blog after a long vacation hiatus — with a model albariño white wine that’s not just fetching and delightful but subtly serious and multi-layered. The Pazo San Mauro Albariño 2014, from Spain’s Rias Baixas region, derives from a 30-hectare estate established in 1988, though grape-growing and winemaking on the site date back to the 16th Century. One hundred percent varietal and made all in stainless steel, the Pazo San Mauro Albariño 2014 is clean, fresh, savory and slightly saline. It offers a pale gold hue and attractive aromas of roasted lemons, spiced pears and lime peel, with flavors that develop along the delicious lines of mango and peach, though not too ripe or florid; this is more about spareness and elegance. A few minutes in the glass bring in elements of bee’s-wax, lanolin and lavender, along with a nuanced touch of woodsy-leafy earthiness. Brisk acidity keeps the wine crisp and lively, a sort of precursor to its essential and bracing sea-breeze/salt-marsh character. 12.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2017 with grilled shrimp or mussels, trout sauteed in a cast-iron skillet, paella and fish tacos. Pazo San Mauro is part of Marques de Vargas Family Wines & Estates. Excellent. About $19, representing Real Value.

Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Company, New York. A sample for review.