Here’s a scintillating pinot blanc that will shiver yer timbers. It’s the Lieb Cellars Reserve Pinot Blanc 2013, from the North Fork of Long Island.
It’s made completely in stainless steel and does not undergo malolactic fermentation, so its freshness, its fervent crispness and blazing acidity are unassailable. The color is very pale straw-gold; aromas of lemon zest, lychee and grapefruit are woven with notes of lemon balm, jasmine, lime peel and chalk. Is this a dry wine? Does the pope wear a funny hat? Yes, this is about as dry as they make ’em, notably limestone-chalk-and-flint dry, with a vibrant line of electrifying acidity and a crystalline structure that feels finely-hewn and faceted; citrus flavors with a bare shading of stone-fruit touch the palate fleetingly, allowing for a deft hint of sunny leafiness among the chiseled and saline mineralities. Bring on the oysters, plump and briny from the shell! 11.9 percent alcohol. Production was 1,305 cases. Winemaker for Lieb Cellars is Russell Hearn; general manager is Ami Opisso. Drink now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $22.

A sample for review.