Sun 23 Mar 2014
…. and it’s not from Napa Valley or Alexander Valley or Paso Robles. No, it hails from the Clare Valley in South Australia, a region that I associate more with superb riesling than cabernet sauvignon, but I’m happy to have my horizons expanded. The Taylor family, wine merchants in Sydney, searched for the right location in keeping with their idea of well-balanced wines and found what they were looking for in 1969, a 178-hectare vineyard — about 380 acres — near the Wakefield River in Clare Valley, about 120 kilometers north of Adelaide. Mitchell Taylor is managing director and third-generation winemaker; chief winemaker is Adam Eggins.
So, the Wakefield St Andrews Single Vineyard Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Clare Valley, offers a transparent medium ruby color and beguiling aromas of mint and iodine, cassis and blueberry, lavender and violets, all borne on deeply rooted elements of briers, loam and graphite. Black and blue fruit flavors are distinctly spicy in the cloves, allspice and mocha range, with a lingering hint of sandalwood; tannins are finely sifted and polished, while any wood influence, from 18 months in French oak barrels, 50 percent new, the rest two and three years old, is firm, subtle and supple. There’s energy and eloquence here, expressed in a feeling of resonance bolstered by vibrant acidity, yet nothing flamboyant or opulent; rather a sense of elementary power married to deftly balanced elegance. The finish is long and packed with dried spice, notes of underbrush and granitic minerality, bringing in a touch of austerity. 14.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2018 to ’20. We gladly drank this with grilled pork chops and mashed sweet potatoes and pan gravy. 250 cases were imported. Excellent. About $60.
Imported by AW Direct, Novato, Calif. A sample for review.