Fri 3 Jan 2014
Domaine Chandon marked the first incursion into California by a Champagne company, that being Moët-Hennessey, which came under the ownership of Louis Vuitton in 1987. The land in Napa Valley, across Highway 29 from Yountville, was acquired in 1973, with the impressive winery opening in 1977. The sparking line range here, originally limited to three models, has expanded enormously and includes for the nonce a nonvintage — a better term would be multi-vintage — Chandon 40th Anniversary Cuvée Rosé, a Sonoma County blend of 50 percent chardonnay grapes, 42 percent pinot noir and 8 percent pinot meunier. The wine went into second fermentation en tirage — on the lees — in May 2007 and was disgorged in January 2013, so it spend five and a half years in the bottle. The color is radiant copper-salmon, enlivened by a fine spume of tiny spiraling bubbles. This is fresh and clean, yeasty and biscuity, and it melds notes of strawberries and raspberries with rose petals, lime peel and a hint of peach. In fact, make that spiced peach, because the Chandon 40th Anniversary Cuvée Rosé is quite spicy and macerated, and while it sports plenty of crisp and vibrant acidity and the essential limestone minerality, the texture is soft and winsome, and it caresses the palate and fills the mouth like creamy silk. Yes, this is a crowd-pleaser, but with a slightly serious backbone. 13 percent alcohol. Winemaker was Tom Tiburzi. Drink now through 2016 to ’18. Excellent. About $40, at the winery or through its website.
A sample for review.