Rarely do I say “Damn, this was good!” about a pinot grigio wine, but I’m happy to make an exception for the Tolentino Winemaker’s Selection Pinot Grigio 2011, Mendoza, Argentina, from Bodegas Cuarto Dominio. I needed to out together a pick-up dinner for LL and me last night, so I sliced some gravlox I made over Monday and Tuesday and served it with scrambled eggs that had pea shoots and chopped radicchio whisked in; alongside were a tomato salad with mint and a few leftover roasted potatoes that I fried in butter. Sorry, no pictures, I was too busy. To accompany this meal, I opened a bottle of this Tolentino Pinot Grigio 2011, made from grapes grown in Mendoza’s Uco Valley at an elevation of 3,300 feet. Winemaker was Javier Catena, and if that name seems familiar, well, yes, Javier is the nephew of Nicolas Catena, the mastermind behind the estate of Catena Zapata, the development of high altitude vineyards in Mendoza and the apotheosis of the malbec grape; the father of Javier is Jorge Catena, Nicolas’ brother, who in 2006 left the family winery where he worked for 40 years to start his own venture.

What compels my excitement about the Tolentino Pinot Grigio 2011? Rarely do you find a pinot grigio that displays this much character and complexity. The color is pale gold; aromas of quince and ginger, preserved lemon and lemon balm, slightly roasted peaches and pears are wreathed with hints of yellow plums, jasmine and almond skin. The note of almond skin is the key to the wine’s character, because as lush, ripe and sensual as this panoply of delights must seem — all citrus, spice, stone-fruit and flowers — the Tolentino Pinot Grigio 2011 is spare, lean and supple, a touch astringent and slightly bitter on the finish, with the influence of damp gravel, dried thyme and grapefruit rind. Give the wine a few minutes, and it pulls up subtle elements of smoke, earth and underbrush. Delightful and tasty, but with more seriousness than you expect. 12 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2014. Excellent. About $15, a Bargain of the Decade.

The Tolentino Pinot Grigio 2011 was a superior choice with the scrambled eggs and gravlox, nicely balancing the richness of the eggs and the savory-spicy pepper-cured salmon.

Imported by Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, Illinois. A sample for review.