Sun 2 Jun 2013
Shirvington is a small family-owned estate founded in 1996 by Paul and Lynn Shirvington and their sons Tony and Mark. Everything about the family, the winery, the website, the labels and its products is understated. There is no expression of ego or personality, no attempt to be all things vinous to all consumers; what matters is only the purity and intensity of their two wines, a cabernet sauvignon and a shiraz. The estate’s first commercial release, a Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, received the Wine of the Year Award at the McLaren Vale Wine Show. An impressive beginning whose promise has been handily fulfilled. I focus here on the Shiraz — elsewhere this is the syrah grape — from 2009 and 2005. I tasted the Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 and ’08, and they’re truly beautiful wines, but my concern in this series is with shiraz. These wines were tasted at a trade event in Chicago on May 15. Shirvington is imported by Quintessential Wines, Napa Ca. Image, much cropped, from ladonnadelvino.com.
The Shirvington Shiraz 2009, Mclaren Vale, aged 17 months in 60 percent new oak barrels, 40 percent once-used; the ratio of barrels being French 65 percent and American 35 percent. The implication in this careful oak regimen of getting proportions and balance right applies to the wine as a whole; there’s an irresistible sense here that every aspect of the wine is both carefully calibrated yet generous and expansive. The color is dark ruby-purple; aromas of black currants, blackberries and blueberries are warm, meaty and fleshy, permeated by notes of cloves and white pepper, leather, violets and bitter chocolate, while the appealing ripeness is balanced, and the complexity is deepened, by a strain of cool graphite minerality. The Shirvington Shiraz 2009 is sleek, lithe, a little muscular and supple in its black pantherish manner, not ponderous or blatant in any way, and certainly not opulent; it’s as elegant as shiraz gets while retaining latent dynamism. Tannins are dense yet polished, packed with woodsy underbrushy elements, acidity is tense and arrow-straight, and the whole package is imbued with a powerful granitic mineral character. This is, in short, an example of great winemaking. Now through 2019 to 2022. Excellent. About $70.
Take the qualities of the Shirvington Shiraz 2009, mellow then a bit, allow them to steep and macerate, give them four years of honing, and you have the Shirvington Shiraz 2005, McLaren Vale. The color is still solid dark ruby-purple, perhaps with a tinge of magenta at the rim; the bouquet feels a bit more broad and expansive, a few shades more ripe and generous than its younger sibling, even more intensely spicy. The ’05 aged 14 months in oak, 85 percent new barrels, and in much more American oak, being 90 percent to 10 percent French; interesting and important choices, tailored, by necessity, to the conditions of the year and the characteristics of the grapes. Everything is in place, the black fruit scents and flavors, the cloves and white pepper, leather, bitter chocolate, the forest and graphite elements, the texture balanced between muscularity and suppleness, all, in this vintage — now eight years gone — wrapped in utmost harmony and appeal but with no diminishing of power or energy. Now through 2016 to 2020. Excellent. About $70.