Mon 14 Jan 2013
Since life and this blog cannot be about Champagne and sparkling wine for every post, damnit, we return to our regular programming for a red wine that should serve you well for the coming week or even longer, especially with the flavorful and savory dishes demanded by this chilly weather. In fact, in my neck o’ the woods, it’s gently raining and sleeting at this moment.
Of the three primary appellations for the sangiovese grape in Tuscany — Chianti Classico and Classico Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano –the last is the least familiar and where it is known is generally considered the least refined, if not the most rustic, of the trio. The wines deserve to have a wider audience. A good place to start is with the Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano 2010. The estate was founded in 1961, when Dino Carletti acquired 22 hectares (about 56.5 acres) in Montepulciano, naming his property Poliziano after the 15th Century poet Angelo Ambrogini, nicknamed “Il Poliziano.” Federico, Dino’s son, operates the estate today, though he expanded the property to 120 hectares (about 308 acres), including vineyards in Maremma, near the coast in southwest Tuscany. Rosso di Montepulciano received official recognition as a D.O.C. wine in 1989. Though it can be made from declassified grapes from Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the practice at Poliziano is to select rows of vines that conform to the production of a younger, fruitier and more approachable wine.
Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano 2010 is a blend of 80 percent sangiovese grapes and 20 percent merlot; about 40 percent of the wine aged eight months in second-year French barriques, 60 percent in large vats. The wine presents a vivid medium ruby color with a tinge of mulberry at the center; aromas of red cherries and plums are highlighted by sour cherry, a touch of melon and hints of tobacco, black tea, cloves and orange rind. The robust nature of sangiovese has a fingerprint all over this wine, but it’s inextricably melded to and balanced with some of merlot’s refinement. Still, there’s vibrant acidity for an engaging presence and dry and moderately grainy tannins for structure. A hint of austerity sands the finish, but this is mainly a wine that’s juicy with red and black fruit flavors. Now through 2015 with hearty pizzas and pasta dishes or grilled beef, veal or lamb — or just a burger. Very Good+. About $15, representing Good Value.
Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Ca. A sample for review.