I’ve always liked the way that wines from Trefethen Family Vineyards stand out as models of restraint and balance, and the Trefethen Dry Riesling 2010, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley, illustrates the case. These rieslings tend to be among my favorites made in California, and they age well; we drank the 2007 version at Thanksgiving last year, and it was splendid. For the 2010 version, the color is a shimmering pale straw-gold; the bouquet features green apple, pear and lychee with hints of peach, honeysuckle and lilac and the grape’s requisite petrol or rubber eraser scent. In the mouth a lean, spare structure of crisp acidity and almost scintillating limestone and chalk elements supports lovely flavors of roasted lemon and lemon balm, with touches of ginger and quince; the finish is long and spicy, with more limestone and traces of lime peel and grapefruit bitterness. We drank this with a pasta dish with spinach, shrimp and marinated tomatoes. Terrific tone and presence, with beguiling balance between taut elegance and slightly earthy lushness. Drink now through 2014 or ’15. Excellent. About $22.

A sample for review.