Thu 26 May 2011
Oh, why the hell not! I was cooking dinner last night and sipping from a glass of the Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare 2010, Central Coast, and I thought, “This deserves to be a Wine of the Week, but I don’t want to wait until next week, because it would be great for this Memorial Day weekend.” So here goes.
The problem with rosé wines like the Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare 2010 is that they’re chilly, tasty and delectable, so we tend to knock them back thoughtlessly instead of taking a bit of time to study them. That proposition presents a paradox: Can a wine be too good for itself? Well, let’s not knot our synapses into an existential conundrum about that idea; let’s just (thoughtfully) enjoy. The wine is blended from 71 percent grenache and 2 percent mourvèdre grapes, which are red, and then a combination of 16 percent roussanne and 11 percent grenache blanc, which are white; these four grape varieties are traditional to the lower Rhone Valley and the South of France. The wine undergoes no oak aging. The color is the classic pale tawny topaz called “onion skin,” hence vin gris in French, “gray wine.” Scents of strawberries and dried red currants are infused with myriad mineral elements — shale, chalk, limestone — and etched with notes of sprightly lime peel and dusty orange rind; give this a few minutes in the glass (but not letting it get over-warm) and you detect a faint aroma of shy musky rose. Flavors of melon and red currants (with hints of thyme and sage) are ensconced in a lovely silky texture sliced by scintillating acidity and a burgeoning limestone character, leaving a finish that’s high-toned, elegant and a little austere. All this, and you can still drink it with cold roasted chicken, deviled eggs, cucumber sandwiches and potato salad. The alcohol content is a sensible 12.8 percent. Now through the end of 2011. Excellent. About $15.
A sample for review.