Mon 9 May 2011
While the 2010 version of the St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc is slowly making its way toward retail stores across the country, don’t neglect the St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Napa Valley, still widely available and often now priced at discount. “But FK,” you’re thinking, “it’s early May of 2011. Should we be drinking this white wine from 2009?” Would I lead you astray, you innocents of heart? Tasting this at a wholesaler’s trade event a few days ago (and slyly copping another small pour), I could not have asked for a sauvignon blanc any more clean, crisp and fresh, any more scintillating or exhilarating. That sense of freshness so immediate that it’s almost startling is a habitual signature of this wine made all in stainless steel. Dashing aromas of new-mown grass, grapefruit, lime peel, green pea and crushed tarragon explode from the glass, calming down after a moment (or at least pausing for breath) to unfurl hints of pear and roasted lemon. A texture nicely poised among chiming acidity, nervy steeliness and seductive softness both buttress and cushion flavors of leafy fig, caraway and spicy pear and peach. This riot of sensation is bone-dry and a tad austere with chalk and limestone on the finish, though the primary impression is of complete delicious delight. 13.7 percent alcohol. Consume through the end of 2011. Excellent. About $20, officially, but found around the country as low as $15.