Mon 24 Jan 2011
I recently tasted through a range of wines from Owen Roe — the winery is in St. Paul, Oregon, and produces wines from Oregon and Washington — and found many of them designed for consumers with iron palates to bear the weight of immense tannins, along with towering purity and intensity; these stylish wines are clearly made for the long haul or the motorcycle gang’s picnic. One wine from Owen Roe that is more accessible is Sinister Hand 2009, Columbia Valley, Washington, a blend of 70 percent grenache grapes, 26 percent syrah and 2 percent each mourvedre and counoise, according to the label; the winery’s website cites slightly different percentages. The grapes derive from the Six Prong Vineyards in the Columbia Valley’s Horse Heaven Hills region that lies along the Columbia River in south-central Washington.
Sinister Hand 2009, I’ll come right out and say, is a lovely example of how a Cotes-du-Rhone Villages-style wine can be intelligently made with grapes from the right vineyard in the correct location. The color is glowing medium ruby with a hint of darker ruby/cherry at the center. The bouquet builds slowly through layers of spice, dried flowers and fruit both ripe and dried: cloves and cinnamon, lavender and violets, dried red currants with spiced and macerated red and black cherries and a hint of wild mulberry. The wine ages 10 months in French oak barrels, only 17 percent of which are new, so the influence of wood is warm, subtle and supple. An edge of shale-like minerality penetrates this warmth and the wine’s spicy black and red fruit flavors with a cool tinge that leads downward to areas of briers, brambles and moss and a bass ground in tannic walnut shell, though all elements are so well-balanced that the tannins feel almost transparent. The essential acidity that binds these factors I have to describe as beautifully vibrant and authoritative. A deeply satisfying wine, with 14.6 percent alcohol but not a blockbuster in any sense. Drink now through 2013 or ’14. Excellent. About $24, but I paid $30 in my neck o’ the woods.