Mon 27 Dec 2010
A white and a red from Ponzi Vineyards, founded in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1970, which for the region makes the winery venerable indeed. Both closed with screw-caps. These wines were samples for review.
Well, this is a winsome thing. The Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2009, Willamette Valley, is utterly fresh and clean, brisk and crisp — say that 10 times fast — with a beguiling bouquet of green apple, roasted lemon, quince and lime and overtones of jasmine and camellia. The texture is deft and pointed with pert acidity, yet that fleetness is balanced by a portion of moderate lushness that perhaps reflects 25 percent of the wine briefly aged in neutral — that is, several times used — oak barrels. Flavors of honeyed pears, a touched of spiced peach and a bit of melon feel ripe and rich, yet the wine is totally dry and finishes with a rush of limestone and grapefruit peel. Production was 1,038 cases. 13.7 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2012. Very Good+. The press material I received quoted a price of $15, but the winery’s website says $17. In any case, the wine represents Great Value.
The Ponzi Tavola Pinot Noir 2009, Willamette Valley, is an entry-level pinot from this producer, by which I mean that the wine is a blend of pinot noir grapes not only from seven of Ponzi’s vineyards but from other vineyards in the Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills, Yamhill-Carlton and Eola Hills appellations. The focus, therefore, is not on a specific vineyard or area but on providing a wine characterized by a broad notion of regional and varietal quality. From that standpoint, the Ponzi Tavola 2009 succeeds admirably. This is a lovely, smooth, silky pinot noir, whose 11 months in French oak (25 percent new barrels) deliver a supple texture and subtly spicy elements. The color is a radiant medium ruby; smoky and slightly macerated black cherries are permeated by touches of rhubarb and cola, with hints of cloves and sandalwood. Black cherry and red currant flavors offer nuances of the typical Willamette Valley briery-brambly nature, while the finish cements the wine’s essential balance and integration with a final fillip of oak. Seductively drinkable with a slight edge of tannic austerity around the circumference. Terrific with roasted chicken. Production was 6,423 cases. 13.7 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2012. Excellent. About $25.