Sauvignon gris is another name for the sauvignon rosé, a pink-skinned mutation of sauvignon blanc. Got that? Not much is planted, under either name, but in Chile sauvignon gris can be made into a delightful white wine, one of the best versions of which comes from the venerable institution of Cousiño-Macul.

Made all in stainless steel, the pale straw-gold Cousiño-Macul Sauvignon Gris 2009, from Maipo Valley, offers a delightful bouquet of roasted lemon, spiced peach and lemon balm with hints of acacia and verbena; give it a few minutes in the glass and notes of orange zest and tangerine emerge, along with a slightly waxy element. Spicy citrus and pear flavors with a trace of dried thyme dominate the mouth, ensconced in a lovely texture that’s almost cloud-like yet lithe and spare and jazzed by crisp, lively acidity. Really charming and great either as aperitif or with fresh ceviche or sushi. Alcohol content is 13.9 percent. Very Good+. About $15.

Imported by Winebow Inc., New York. Tasted at the Cousiño-Macul estate on Oct. 5.