Chianti Rúfina is an enclave on the sloping foothills of the Apennines, in the northeastern reaches of Tuscany, that for centuries has had the reputation of producing red wines that are both more refined and more concentrated than their cousins, also made from the sangiovese grape, in the Chianti regions closer to Florence. At least they have that potential. We won’t generalize from the example of one bottle, but the Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rúfina 2006, from Marchesi de Frescobaldi, is a fine model indeed. Composed of 90 percent sangiovese and 10 percent a blend of malvasia nera, colorino, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, the wine aged 24 months in second- and third-use French oak barrels, so while there’s plenty of wood influence in the wine’s taut, powerful structure, there’s no taint of pumped-up vanilla-ish new oak. Nipozzano Riserva 2006 offers the warmth, generosity and elegance that sangiovese can deliver in its best manifestation. The color is medium ruby-garnet with a darker, bluish cast at the center; aromas of plums, dried currants, cloves, tobacco leaf and oolong tea draw one’s nose to the glass, with, in a few moments, additions of orange rind and new leather. This is all classic stuff, well-knit and impeccably balanced, made vibrant by lip-smacking acidity, and seamlessly wedded in its segue of scents and flavors. In the mouth, black fruit is awash with notes of potpourri and lavender, dried spice and shale-like minerality; the wine is smooth and mellow but gently roughened in the depths and circumference by dusty, slightly chewy tannins. We drank the Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rúfina 2006 with Saturday night’s pizza, and that was great, but its highest function is to accompany steaks; pappardella with porcini mushrooms, duck or rabbit; full-bodied braises and stews; or venison. Alcohol content is 13.5 percent. Drink now through 2014 to ’16. Excellent. About $22.

Imported by Folio Wine Co., Napa, Cal. A sample for review.