If you’re grilling salmon or trout this week or preparing a vegetarian pasta dish or a Southeast Asian stir-fry, twist open a bottle of the Kilikanoon “Mort’s Block” Riesling 2009, from the Watervale area of South Australia’s lovely Clare Valley. The Clare Valley is one of the world’s great regions for producing wines made from the riesling grape, and that includes the whole range, from the driest and most delicate to sumptuous dessert wines. Kilikanoon was founded in 1997 by Kevin Mitchell, who continues as winemaker today.

The Kilikanoon “Mort’s Block” ’09 falls into the dry and delicate category, but by “delicate” I don’t mean fragile or wimpy. Instead, this is a riesling of shattering purity and intensity that offers scintillating aromas of roasted lemon, lime peel and grapefruit with a hint of the grape’s requisite petrol accent. It’s an incredibly crisp and lively riesling, with attractive lift and elevation, exhibiting a sort of (I mean) acid, sea-salt and limestone-borne surge of cleansing and quenching freshness, all of this underscored by gravelly earthiness. To flavors of green apple and lemon, the wine adds hints of pear and mango and whiffs, in the bouquet, of apple blossom. Pretty damned irresistible. Excellent. About $20.

Imported by Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, Cal. A sample for review.