This hit the spot while I was cooking dinner last night: a couple of glasses of Bortolomiol Bandarossa, Valdobbiadene Prosecco. Bandarossa means, basically, “red strip,” usually taken as a sign of distinction, and it’s no misnomer for this ethereal sparkling wine. The color is pale gold; the bubbles are smaller and finer than is typical for prosecco, which must be made by the Charmat process of second fermentation in tank. First impression: refreshing scents of roasted lemon, lime peel and steel, then come almond and almond blossom. In the mouth, there’s a touch of green apple, followed by lemon-lime and a hint of orange zest and dusty lime leaf enlivened with a swag of ginger and cloves. The wine, slightly sweet on entry, is deftly balanced between limestone crispness and moderately lushness, and it finishes with scintillating dryness and steely delicacy. I don’t often award proseccos an Excellent rating, but I will in the case of this beautifully-knit example. About $24.

Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York. A sample for review.